Our next visit was to the Island of Vanua Lava. A larger volcanic island with the usual high mountains in the middle and rocky, or black sand beaches. The black rocks are everywhere and you need to be very careful heading ashore in your dingy.
Our first stop was Vureus Bay.
We had a calm anchorage with black sand which is good holding. Like most places the clinic is placed up in the hills out of the village. We were very excited to have a truck to take us and our gear up the hill. You can see the ocean in the left hand side of the picture.
When we arrived at the clinic we were impressed to see the community had completed a second, concrete building with rooms where sick people could stay and be treated. This was a much needed addition to the old timber building which was very small. Both were clean and in good order. The midwife has been here since last time we visited although she has been transferred to join her husband on Ambae.
We set up on the small verandah expecting a very busy 2 days.However politics interfered and we did not see many patients and packed up early. Masang the dentist is waiting for patients to arrive for clinic.
People put in a lot of effort to come to the clinic, walking from villages many hours away. This lady hobbled in with a walking stick, her joints were so bad her knees went one way and the ankles the other. She had picked up a cold virus like many of the villagers and I had to help her to be able to climb the stairs to get her panadol and advice.
One of the reasons for the new paint and screens on the clinic was evident when we met Luke, a young American in the Peace Corp. He has completed 17 months of a 2 year stay in the village living in this house. The left is the cook house, the right is his bedroom and the centre a living area he built with help from the villagers. It is a great design with the cool open area in the middle attracting breezes. He was assigned to work on a water project for the village but has assisted with health education and maintenance work.
Another black sand, or more accurately gravel beach with small waves washing up making dingy launchings very interesting and sometimes very wet.
Waterfall Bay/Lion Bay
From Vureus bay we sailed on looking forward to Waterfall Bay. We have been here before and swam under the waterfall with the piccininis. We had heard there were disputes leading to changes following Jif Jimmy’s death late last year.
At least he waterfall is still there. We anchored in calm water to the north of the waterfall and were surprised that there was noone on shore at all. Canoes came visiting from around the point were Jif Nixons village is (previous Jif Jimmy).
Previously Jif KirraLee’s village had be situated on the North of the waterfall in the bay next to the anchorage. The crowning glory was a ‘Yacht Club’ where many visiting boats donated flags. The walls were festooned with flags from all around the world. They always provided visiting yachts with a warm welcome and if there were a few they would put on a meal. Now it is all deserted and the families have gone to live with other relatives.
The waterfall was a torrent due to rain the day before so the villagers suggested we dingy around to Lion Bay where we would hold clinic.
This is a pretty spot with reef all around and across the bay with two small openings. naturally we took the wrong one and with hearts in mouth we wound our dingies round bombies and rocks across the bay to the right beach. The aide station had been closed so we had to make do out in the open again. This also meant a busy day as people now have a very long trip to get to any medical attention. There was only one new baby to get immunised which is quite unusual.
After clinic we have half an hour for a quick dip in the waterfall before heading off to Vartop.
Vartop
We enjoyed a lovely sail from Waterfall Bay to Vartop passing a number of these impressive waterfalls. I guess it’s no surprise then that we have had so much overcast weather and lots of misty rain.
Entering between large scattered rocks we land on another black sand beach and walk inland to the village. The Aide post is closed and everyone at Church so we wait and shortly we are surrounded by welcoming people. One lady meets us and tells us she will be preparing lunch and will visit us a little later. The people here are always very keen to see us and they look on our visits as their annual or bi-annual checkup.
Another satisfied customer with glasses. People who have pterigiums are given sunglasses to protect their eyes. They are able to have them treated in Vanuatu now and can be referred to go to Luganville in December. One of the issues with travelling with the copra boats is that they have no idea when the next one is coming They may have to wait a couple of months to get back home.
Lulnetak
As we sailed towards Lulnetak we came across a lovely small island surrounded by white beaches and our anchorage was behind it. We entered the small bay between 2 very long thin areas of reef that offered protection from the swell. Going ashore we had a change from black sand as the beach was covered with ankle twisting small rocks to boulder size. These are very hard to walk upon, but at least we had shoes, the locals do everything bare foot although sometimes they wear slippers (thongs).
We walked inland through a small seaside village along a track through the bush to the next village.An enjoyable walk across a stream through the lush vegetation of a country with rich volcanic soil and plentiful rains.
As the path opened out to the next village we came across their copra drying kiln.
This was a very hot fire under a sheet of iron that supported the coconut pieces.
Sacks of dried copra were stored at the side ready to be transported to the beach for collection by the copra boats. This is still the main source of income for many villagers and it was heartening to hear that the price had gone up to $300 per ton.
This was a clean well organised village with industrious villagers.
No having to sit on fallen trees here; the villagers brought the homemade pews out of the church for us to use. That made life much easier and we even got a small table to use and they allowed Dr Franz to use the church and the dentists the nukemal. They were really happy to see us.
Pharmacist Jean-Francios had us amazed by a concert he had the children singing and clapping! The surprise was at the end of it he gave them all what looked like a lollie – it turned out to be their worming tablet. The kids loved them!
Going back to the boats we had lots of help to carry the equipment and even our own bags. The people are so kind and generous.
With such a lovely calm safe anchorage we all had a good night sleep and did not miss the swells at all! Next morning at dawn it was time to head off to Sola for the weekend. Sola is the province capital and a government town with offices including immigration and customs, and health. There is a large regional police presence and we noted the police boat is still broken.
We expected after five years to see a few changes but Sola looks very much the same. Some of the government offices have swapped around but not much else seems to have happened.
One of the local shops with the roof held down with anything heavy they can find. The shops are closed either on Saturday or Sunday depending on which church the owners go to. There is a large SDA community here so it is different walking down the street to find most of the shops closed, although some open at 6pm when Sabbath is finished.
The hospital doesn’t seem much changed but is a little better fitted out. We were pleased to meet an old friend Santhy who is now running an eye clinic at the hospital. He has received extra training in Fiji and has a lovely set of testing lenses. However there is nowhere to get prescription glasses made so it is not much benefit. As we have seen previously glasses are given out mostly by age. He and Mike and spent a lot of time discussing eye testing and he was excited to see our simple eye-tester. We are hoping to be able to obtain one for him. A huge benefit is that they have an operating theatre where they can do Pterygiums and where a team come and do cataracts. This is a great help in a country where the sun is so harsh.
It was strange to find that they had arranged for us to do a clinic at the hospital. We had expected the dentists to work as there are no dentists this far north.